I've found somewhere to upload photos!!! ;-)

The New Chief and Old Chief are escorted down by the Counsellors, Chiefs and others, including the Young Zulu Warriors.

Me and my Zulu girl-friends...

Here are a couple of photos from the Inauguration of the New Chief. (so you can see how cool I look dressed as a Zulu!)

Maphepheteni

This is the creature that they make the tops of shields from - wild cat apparently.
Me and Mdu's younger brother (whose name I've temporarily forgotten!)

Before the joys of rugby I spent a few hours in the Valley near Inanda Dam on Saturday afternoon. My friend Mdu wanted to visit his family and so I drove him down there. It's a stunningly beautiful drive down the mountain towards a lake that would not look out of place in N.Italy next to Lake Garda.

Mdu's family live along the banks of the River Duzi, famous for a marathon boat race once a year (not sure when?) and you have to cross the river (thankfully there's a road bridge) and then drive along the river and then down a track right up close to the river before descending through a field to get to their place. Last time I apparently drove 'too fast', so now I let him drive the last bit, which meant I was free to take photos. (again there are loads more on facebook).

Once we got there, Mdu took the kids off to the store and I was left with his family, which was interesting as the majority of them don't speak English. One of his younger brothers, Khaye, speaks good English so he made sure I was being looked after. Bit of an awkward moment when they brought out a bottle of coke for me to drink. I haven't had coke since 2003 as it makes me ill. Took me a little while to get them to understand that. (Ngiyaxolisa kodwa uma ngiphuza icoke, ngiyagula kakhulu.... ) check out my Zulu ;-) Eventually I managed to get some pineapple fanta (still full of sugar, but no caffeine!)

In any case, their family are big on making shields and traditional costume and they do this in the rondavel where they entertain visitors. So I got a great insight into how one makes these things. The animal that they use for the tops of the shields (Chris L - this is what's on your shield! - you wanted to know) is a small wild cat that they catch locally. There were several skins hanging up to dry. The skins that are used for drums were being stored in a pond down by the river and while we were down there, the wife of one of the brothers came down with a rake and hoiked them out. What a smell! Pond-soaked animal skins...

They have their own beach down by the river. You can walk across the river to the other side but I refrained. And I'm glad I did as I later found out that this river is rather polluted. I imagined it would be, it's used for many different purposes not just canoe marathons. The family don't wash white clothes in there, but I think that's the only thing that doesn't get put there!

Anyway, it was so nice to be in the middle of nowhere, to be surrounded by beautiful mountains, and to not hear any traffic. It was so tranquil and peaceful.

Rugby

I did watch the match on Saturday night. I felt I had to really although I'm not a huge rugby fan.

The atmosphere here was hyped up, to say the least. I'd spent the afternoon at a friend's house in the valley (away from all rugby talk!) and we popped into Spur (S.Africa's favourite steak house) for food on the way to watch rugby at church. The TVs were already on and EVEN SPUR was closing at 8pm on a Saturday night so that the staff could watch...

We watched the first half at my church on big screen, a very well-attended event. They'd had a braai just before. The room was full of 120 S.Africa supporters and me. I shouted 'come on England' at appropriate moments at a volume barely audible by mice...

My Zulu friend Mdu had never seen a rugby match before (he's a soccer boy) and was quite fascinated by the hype. But he concluded after a few moments that the game was 'a bit rough'... and he wasn't too bothered when we left at half time to get home.

The biggest joy of the evening was the N3. We passed 1 lorry and 2 cars on a normally hectic busy motorway. It was bliss! ;-)

I watched the rest of the game alone at home. Sorry for England, but hey, we did win last time so it's only fair to allow others a moment of glory. After the game the TV coverage went to various places around the country for 'how the people are celebrating' report. Durban was the funniest. The presenter got mobbed and you couldn't hear a word. So they switched cameras to a woman and the same thing happened to her. Then a random woman looking for her friend wandered into shot. It was classic botch-up television...

Amahle (aged 6) reminded me last night that South Africa had beaten England and that England were the losers. I thought I should maybe beat him at basketball for that comment, but then the nicer side of me kicked in and I allowed him to win. He does have a disadvantage in being about 3 ft 6...

Prayer letter

I've just sent out my latest prayer letter. Contact me if you didn't get it but want one...

Please pray in addition to this about my energy levels... you know when you get to that stage of not having any energy to care about things being discussed that it's time for a break..

I'm on weekend off now but haven't gone anywhere to stay cos my car has cost me too much this month in service fees and paying for new tyres...

But I'm sure that even at my house I can be refreshed. I need some fresh energy and inspiration. Everything is becoming tiresome. I'm going on holiday in December when my parents come out but right now it seems that even next weekend off is a long way off!

Having said I'm going nowhere I will be watching the rugby this evening, with Americans instead of South Africans. It's bad enough being in 'enemy territory' at this time, let alone having to watch it with them... Secretly I hope England win, then I can smile sweetly at everyone, but in reality I don't really care, I'm more of a football girl... and there's no chance that there would ever be an England - SA final for that!! ;-)

Inauguration of Nkosi Mlaba

Last Saturday the inhabitants of the Valley of Kwa Ximba celebrated a rare occasion – the inauguration of a new Chief. The new Chief’s father had been killed when he was small and his uncle has been serving as Chief until this one was old enough. Now, at age 28, he is ready to take on his designated role as Chief of a very large area of the Valley of 1000 Hills. These kind of events don’t happen very often and the King of the Zulus himself was present to do the deed.
We were privileged enough to be invited to join in the celebrations and the Young Zulu Warriors were invited to lead the escort of men down from the Chief’s house to the soccer ground where the big marquee was set up. They were also asked to perform after the ceremony, but due to reasons beyond their control they didn’t actually perform in the end.

The day itself was hot, with a thunderstorm brewing for later in the day. We had to be down there early. The ceremony was due to start at 10am, with the new Chief (Nkosi) being escorted down from his house at 8.45am. In reality, Africa time set in and the actual ceremony began at 12.30pm. The King didn’t arrive until about 11.30am and the Nkosi was definitely not arriving triumphantly at 8.45am, it was more like 10! One gets used to these timings and comes prepared to wait around.

All of our children over the age of 10 were invited and they had to opportunity to wear traditional Zulu dress. The boys wore skins – a kind of skirt, 2 calf bracelet things, 2 arm bands and a headband, all made from animal skins. It took Mdu about 7 hours to make 8 of these costumes up new on the day before. The girls wore black tops with beads and different skirts, all adorned with beads. They opted out of the ‘traditional’ costume of going topless. The majority of girls there did go topless though, as tradition states. Married women wear full outfits with many beads and great hats.

The Nkosi’s arrival was something to behold. He marched down from his house on top of the hill flanked by the out-going Chief and the Local Chiefs and Councillors. Just behind them came the Young Zulu Warriors and they were accompanied by all the other men of the area, some in traditional skins, others just with their shield and sticks. There were probably several hundred men escorting him down. At a short distance behind them came the girls and women, singing and dancing. It was quite a sight to see as they marched into the grounds, brandishing their sticks and shields and shouting victoriously.

Then the waiting began for the King to arrive. The rest of the Royal entourage were in place but it was still an hour or so before His Majesty King Goodwill Zwelithini turned up. And then we heard police sirens and looked up the hill that was in the distance and saw the police escort arriving. The King had maybe 8 police cars escorting him in. His car registration is ZK1 – nice. However this is obviously a state secret as when one of the Brits with me tried to take a photo with his phone he met with opposition from the police and was made to delete it immediately on pain of losing his phone…

A group of Christian guys (and one woman!) from the UK had visited earlier in the week and had been invited, so I spent the day with them. We got VIP passes which ensured us front row seats (although not in the raised seating section for the Chiefs and royal family) and entry to the dining tent for the customary beef curry afterwards. We also had access to the VIP toilets, but unfortunately they were locked. There was also a hospitality tent, which we later discovered was in fact the King’s tent and we’d just stolen his water… oops. He didn’t seem to notice thankfully so our heads remained on… The Brits thought this was the most amazing day and what an experience. Indeed, it’s not the kind of thing one can just walk into and they were very clever in picking their time to visit us so that they could take this experience away with them.

When the King was there and all was set we could proceed into the big marquee where there was a triumphant entry of the king, surrounded by the men and accompanied by a praise caller (who also works at the rugby and is a guy I’ve definitely seen on TV ads) who shouts out praises to the King as he enters. The guy is loud.

There then followed about 3 hours of Zulu, of which I understood about 10 words. I stood up when there should only be men standing, but the mistake was pointed out quickly to me and rectified. I carefully observed some of our girls outside chatting to local youth, unbeknown to them that I could see. I chuckled at the lack of stamina of the Brits, who are strangers to these ceremonies and were dozing off one at a time. I smiled sweetly and looked demure when I noticed the video camera was pointing straight at me. (I later regretted not watching the news on Sunday when I was on SABC1 and SABC2 news. Am trying to track down a copy for a souvenir.)

The actual inauguration took about 2 minutes. The King had a shiny sword and it looked like he knighted Nkosi Mlaba. I was later told by Zulus that his speech was good. He is a popular King with his people and you could tell. It seemed very entertaining and people laughed a lot. Except his first wife, she fell asleep. Probably heard that joke before.

After the ceremony we retired to the dining tent. The Brit boys went up to get some food and were in the process of getting their plates filled when someone realised that we had to wait until the King had been served in his tent, so the food was unceremoniously thrown back and they had to wait! But we didn’t have to wait long.

When the King had been escorted off, the VIPs went up to the Nkosi’s house where the real party was happening. I had to make a brief stop there to present a cake from our organisation, as my director was ill and unable to attend the event. The cake was well-received. I’d taken a couple of German volunteers with me to film the cake-handing over moment but they were more engrossed in the action outside the Chief’s house where the cows were being killed for food. I chose not to watch, I don’t need to see it to understand the brutality of how Zulus prepare their feasts. But the boys loved it!

These are the kind of days that make me really appreciate being here and in the position I find myself in. One can’t just walk into these events, you have to be invited and it’s always such a privilege to be invited to be a part of the local culture and tradition. It makes for very interesting conversations and broadens our minds as to what other cultures value and how they celebrate important events. The Zulus love having non-Zulus come too, not many white people go down into these valleys and so any that do venture down there (particularly if we have a soccer ball in the car!) are made to feel very welcome.

Inauguration

Last Saturday we celebrated the inauguration of Nkosi Mlaba in the Valley of Kwa Ximba...
the story will follow... just running out of time at internet cafe... ;-)
unfortunately I can't get photos on today, but have put some on facebook as it's easier to upload...

oh and I was apparently on National TV as well, on SABC news Sunday night on at least 2 channels... and I missed it!

trying to track down the tape...

Rain

It has rained solidly here since Sunday afternoon. We had a brief thunderstorm yesterday to make things slightly more exciting, but apart from that it's wall-to-wall rain, a grey blanket across the skies and a lot of mud and potholes. The track that leads from the tar road up to here is now full of holes and water, making any attempt at negotiating it hazardous. Unfortunately it's the only way out of here.
I couldn't go to small group at church last night. Driving was too hazardous and it was very dark.. Annoying as they were going to pray for me.
One of my preschools was closed today too due to the bad rain, and at another one attendance was low. When the weather is this bad people don't leave home.
Apparently it's due to get better on Thursday, but that's 2 more days of rain... it's bad enough up here on the top of a hill, I can't even begin to imagine what it must be like in the muddy valleys...

And it doesn't help that I'm waking every morning depressed. I know something is wrong because normally I wake up in a good mood, but for a while now I've been waking in a weird mood, kind of gloomy. It's like I've turned into Eeyore and everything is a chore. I keep falling asleep too easily too... (so far I missed the only goal in last week's Man U v AS Roma match AND the end of The Matrix... it's not good) . I've tried praying it off but wonder if it's something I've got to go through and that things will get better soon. I hope they do. Please pray with me through this. God is faithful, but for some reason I'm just glum...

car antics..

It never ceases to amaze me how good God is... Despite the terrible roads over here, He still faithfully protects and provides for me on my frequent travels..

Late yesterday afternoon, I drove a friend, Mdu, to visit his family in Maphephetini, by Inanda dam (possibly the most beautiful dam in this country..) and we would have been ok apart from the thunderstorm that started as soon as we got there. We managed to get out of the deepest bit of the valley ok, but as I was driving up the mountain to Hillcrest, with rivers of water flowing down towards us from the top on the windy road, I managed to drive over a BIG pothole which resulted in the front tyre of my car bursting... (having just been repaired from an embedded nail from another valley road!) So poor old Mdu had to change the tyre in the rain. Zulus don't like storms so he was especially brave! ;-) He's such a star, didn't complain once!

As we were sorting my car out, another car went past which must have done exactly the same manoeuvre as they too had a flat...

Anyway, about half an hour later and soaking wet (I'd been holding the umbrella, but it wasn't much help!) we could go on our way again and made it home safely.

Then this morning, as I was setting out for Durban, I got a frantic call telling me that my rear passenger tyre was flat... so I had to reverse up the track to get back to the soccer field where all the guys where playing a soccer tournament and take one of them with me to the garage to buy 2 new tyres...

It was only on reflection that I realised both tyres must have been hit by the same pothole, yet the back one survived through the storm, roadworks and delays to get home last night. Had it gone then we would almost certainly have been in trouble.. God is good!

ray of sunshine...

funeral 2

As promised, here's my account of the funeral that we went to on Tuesday.

First of all, it was a long way away. I was so glad that I didn't actually have to drive as it was so far. So I travelled in the front of the Combi (the same one I drove a year ago if you can remember that far back). I was also glad as the road we took went from tar road to gravel road, then dirt, then rocks, across a stream and over smaller rocks, through some mud, down a shingly track and into what can only be compared to the wilderness of a game reserve (minus the lions, hopefully) in the absolute middle of nowhere. As far as we could make out, the nearest neighbours were about 6 km away on another mountain slope! Ultimate respect to Samson for driving a combi through what was essentially a 4x4 offroad adventure track! (incidentally, the combi stopped working the next morning, wonder why?!)

So we went via New Hannover to pick up the coffin and then on past Greytown, Muden and into the wilderness for 1 hour till we arrived at the birthplace of the lady. It was bleak, dry rocky ground which was difficult for the men to dig a grave in, probably why they were still digging when we had to leave. Although we did find out that there had been some dispute as to whether she could be buried there as well, which caused delays.

The coffin was taken into the house and the photos and yellow roses that Catherine felt we should buy were laid on the top. Then everyone sat around and sang, prayed and cried in Zulu for what felt like ages. Spha, the little boy sat very quietly to start with but was restless after a while. N, the baby was grabbed by some relatives and didn't appreciate that at all so she wailed a bit, but calmed down later. In fact, both children we very well behaved, all things considered.

And that was it really, we had to drive back before they put the coffin in the ground. The most poignant thing was that the coffin was made of chipboard and cardboard and held together with what looked like tacks. That nearly got me. Even in death, poverty is alive and well. It was all that could be afforded with what little she had. Although at least she had a funeral, apparently there are hundreds of unclaimed bodies in the mortuary that have to be buried in mass graves..

The children are now with us here, now the task falls to Auntie Pretty to sort out their welfare with the social workers. They continue to settle in and are doing well. Pray for the health of the baby and that Spha will adapt to an English speaking environment when he only speaks Zulu.

Tired

It's amazing how tired one can get here. The weather has been awful and it's chucked it down with rain since about 2 days ago which is depressing and muddy. No thunderstorms, but it's only a matter of time...

I thought I'd poisoned myself last week on some dodgy turkey, but now I think it must have been a tummy bug cos Catherine went down with it last night and we've pretty much eaten the same food. Am glad I didn't get it as bad as her, although I still had to take last Thursday off to rest. This actually was good for me as I had been stupidly tired and that way I had some energy for the weekend of work. I'm finding more and more that I'm totally exhausted at the end of each day, frequently falling asleep in front of the TV or with the light on...

Where is the sun?

The baby (see previous blog) has been a little ray of sunshine. I got her a few toys and a playmat as she had nothing. These stay in my house as otherwise they'd be trashed by the other kids in seconds. She comes over and loves playing. In the space of a week she's learnt that if she pulls the lion's tail it sings and that the toy book has things to pull too. She's nearly crawling, is getting in position... it won't be long. This child has spent the first 6 months of her life in the sugar cane of Swayimane, sleeping at night in a rickety old valley toilet. Considering that, she's positively a child genius! ;-)

funeral

Tomorrow I'll be attending my first Zulu funeral. We took in 2 children a few weeks ago as their mother was seriously ill. It was a privilege to pray for her last Tuesday when she was here briefly. She looked as if the hope had gone from her eyes. She died early on Saturday morning in a hospice. She was 29.

The funeral is tomorrow in her birthplace far from here. There was no one to move her body from the hospice to the mortuary yesterday so we had to send a car to help. We'll be providing the same help tomorrow. The funeral directors are overwhelmed and so it falls to the families to organise everything. In this case there is little family around, although we have made contact with her brother who is arranging everything.

I have spent quite a bit of time making sure that the 6 month old girl has been cared for properly here with us. She is a little treasure and at her age I guess she won't remember much about her mother. Her brother has settled into the creche, he's gorgeous too, but only speaks Zulu and it's fun to watch the volunteers try to communicate with him. I am managing to speak Zulu with him, albeit haltingly. He's about 4 so will feel his mother's death more. Both children will be with us tomorrow as it's traditional.

I'll write more after the event. At the moment we are busy sorting out logistics. I'm sure there is more to reflect on. I took photos of her with her son last week. These are being printed here at the internet cafe as I write. One or two will be framed and placed on the coffin tomorrow.